How to build one of a kind skiff deck and parts.

This blog is about how I build one off decks, hatches, cockpits or just about any type of fiberglass part needed for a custom build or modification.

The deck being built here was for a gentleman that I met over the Internet asking my advice on his home build. I first met Reeve online when I was sailing in the Carribean two years ago. He emailed and was asking advice here and there on how to do the details on the ENVI BOATWORKS 17' skiff he was building out of Corecell core and Raka epoxy. Turned out he is a Dentist and lived in Gainsville where our daughter Lillian was going to collage. Dr. Reeve ended up doing some dental work on Lillian.

When we went up to Gainsville for Lillian's graduation Reeve invited all of us to stay at his house for the time we were there. I got to see his skiff build.

Reeve had done a great job of building the hull which was built using the ENVI boats kit jig setup.

There were no plans for the deck and how to build a custom Oneoff deck with all the details of modern hatch drains, curves, lips and such.

I could see Reeve was at a stopping point on his project as he had no idea on how to finish his skiff in the same detailed manner he had gotten so far.

I told Reeve I would be happy to build his deck for him as thanks for his hospitality.

We made plans for me to come back.

When I returned Marc the owner of ENVI BOATWORKS came down from Carolina with his wife to watch me in my build process. Marc couldn't believe that I could build a custom deck in less than a week. 

Follow along here and you will see that any kind of part can be made very easily with the right planning in advance.

The parts being made here will have to be sanded and finished painted.

Here's the LITHIUM SKIFF built by Geneo Baker all done Oneoff.

Geneo built his deck the same way you will see here. This system is what every plug builder uses when building a finished mold from scratch by hand.

Here's Reeves skiff. 

Reeves home is back in the woods and it was nice and quiet when I turned off the fans. The heat was around 90-92 degrees most all the time with plenty of big slow Mosquitios about.

This is his workshop.

First thing I did was to make patterns using door skins of the deck sheer, where the bulkheads lined up and where all the locker openings were.

Door skins are 1/8" cheap plywood you would use to resurface a damaged hollow house door. They are cheap at $12.00 each and are very smooth.

I use sheet rock screws to hold all the pieces in place screwing into his hull core.

The deck patterns are all in place. The hatch openings are in place with the openings showing what the outside edges of the hatches will represent. You have to know how wide your hatch channels and gutters are going To be to know what your final opening width will be.

Everything designed was as per Reeves wishes of his deck design layout.

Reeve wanted 3/4" deck crown forward with 1/2" crown aft. The hatches would have to be made to fit this crown perfectly.

Once the patterns are made and all the layout is decided it's time for more room so out goes the skiff.

The lumber is for the deck jig to be built on the floor. To raise it up off the floor takes more lumber and time. I just use the cheapest straightest wood available.

All materials for the building jig, wood, screws, wax, clay cost $265.00.

Building on the floor if it's level is fine but it can be a bit back breaking.

Here is a simple example of what is needed.

Deck patterns layed out to see where the deck supports will need to be.

Deck plywood now screwed down onto deck jig. The crown has been cut into the 2x4s so the plywood just screws down into the crowned curve.

Make sure you have enough extra over hang on the plywood for the outer sheer edge wood to fasten too.

Buy cheap smooth plywood like birch ply or like this stuff from Lowes that was made of some soft smooth wood. I used 1/2" ply. Because it's not going to get wet it can be really cheap stuff but it has to be flat and as smooth as possible. If the ply has more grain it will just mean you will have to sand a bit more on the finished part to get rid of the wood grain texture.

Now lay the deck pattern in place. THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS TO FLIP THE PATTERN UPSIDE DOWN!!!! In order for the deck to be made you will have to build it inside out. So you have to reverse the pattern. Otherwise it will never fit. No boat hull is perfect from side to side. Your pattern reflects the reality of the deck it was made from. RIGHTSIDE UP. YOU WILL BE BUILDING YOUR PART UPSIDE DOWN.

I allways draw a center line and draw the hatches out from the the middle of the centerline. Some old skiffs can be an inch or more off from sheer topsides from side to side. No big deal if all your hatches are all aligned down the middle. You cannot see from side to side to ever notice these mistakes.

I let the ply run out up forward to make the crown curve be more fair and to not worry about following the deck sheer.

See the extra edge left for the sheer edge plank that is to be screwed in place.

Once the patten has been traced and marked off on the plywood deck form you can start making the hatch channels. I like to screw the inner hatch flanges in place as you can then push against these when applying the clay or wax fillets.

When you lift the finished deck up and off this mold they will just stay in place.

This drawing shows the basics of what's up. The inner flange that the hatch will eventually sit on is the part that I screw down to the deck plug. This stabilizes the hatch. You will have to determine the finished thickness of your hatch to arrive this piece of woods thickness. If it's not at the right depth then your hatch might stand proud of the finished deck. Measure the thickness of the core you will be using. Then add up the layers of fiberglass you will be using. Then decide if your hatch will sit on a gasket or not. From this you then will know the thickness this piece needs to be.

Another hatch detail. Remember that the wood forms are there to give shape to your finished structure.

Everything needs a bit of draft to it on at least one side. That is it cannot be square or it will be very hard to pull out. It must have some draft or slight angle on one side from 1/16-1/8". I put this one needed angle on the outside of the channel edge that will be going along the deck.

Don't worry about thight fits. Just get the corners cut to approximate lengths.

I like these gaps to fill in with clay as it makes them easier to remove later.

Once all the channel edges are in place I mark the corner angles that will need to be cut off. I do this with an angle grinder one at a time putting each one back in place after it looks right.

Here is the deck with the sheer edges in place, the cockpit edges built in and all the hatches in place ready for clay.

I like using basic kids clay. You can also buy wax fillets that are already radiused. These wax fillets you lay in place and use a stainless steel ball that it has on a tip of a rod to mold the wax fillets to the channel edges. The stainless ball is heated with a candle or by just having a kerosene lantern going to pass the ball into to heat up.

The wax system is more costly. 

I have always used the clay method.

I feel the slightly better radiuses you get with the wax system is not worth the effort of the $ as you will be sanding the finished product and painting it with primer when done either way.

Cut the clay up into cubes, then roll out to make clay worms. This skiff was to have big a big sheer edge radius. Also nice moderate radiuses in the cockpit. Small radius = small skinny clay worms.

Lay in clay worm, smush in slightly and then push along with your finger tip using it as the radius.

Reeve wanted to have flush hinges so I made these plastic inserts for the hinges to lay into.

 

What you end up doing is pushing the clay into the gaps of the corners and making all your own little curves and radiuses using your finger tip points to smooth out the clay with. It's easy.

An army of worms. The round corners of the cockpit are made up of Kerfed plywood. To cover the saw cuts to make the ply bend you just cover with masking tape. Brown smooth packing tape is good too.

The deck all ready for wax now. I use any type of car wax or best yet is mold release paste wax.

Just wipe it on liberally. Best to do a coat. Then two more. By the time each one is done it will be dry enough to take another coat. If your wood is rough then slobber it up with wax. 

Now as your wax is drying you need to cut all your deck materials. You can now use the deck patterns to help as patterns to get all the cloth cut neat and accurate.

I make a drawing with all the sections divided up by numbers or letters. This way everything gets labeled and you can just reach over and get the right piece as you go along.

This part of the build process has to be done neatly and accurately because once you start you will be bending over rolling sticky resin and it all needs to fall into place with no hassles. 

Remember it's 90 degrees in the shade here, Mosquitios about and during this build I was having to pass a kidney stone. I pissed it out like a water canon between breaks into the bushes.

As they say...everything came out all right in the end...er tip.

I am a stickler for cutting, labeling and folding my cloth pieces in the right direction as it will need to be rolled out.

Because Reeve was building this boat using RAKA epoxy I was stuck with having to use 1208 bi-axel cloth. So the matted side was to be laid down first. The the second layer was to be laid right side up so the matt would be facing the core that was to be laid into it all wet with epoxy resin.

Because it was averaging 90 degrees in heat everything had to flow along perfectly.

Shown here is the way I start rolling my cut cloth parts up. I fold a big edge over and the fold this in half in the middle to get a nice tight roll going. This is important with many other types of cloth rovings and such as they like to start coming apart. Keep the rolls neat.

See...

I lable with felt pens showing with a small arrow which way it's supposed to unroll.

It can get a bit confusing if not marked as all the rolls will look the same eventually. This helps.

Now the cloth is all cut I use the patterns again to cut out the deck core pieces.

The two short lines are showing where the corner of the deck is with a hatch. The long final lines are what I have decided will be my cut back core edge.

Reeve built his hull with 3/4" Corecell core flat panels. We used up what he had left over. Because these sheets were smooth and flat I drilled vent holes in them to let out air when they were to be laid down into the wet cloth.

Cut the core with a jig saw. Keep all the dust away from the form because when you start glassing it's a pain when a small piece of stuff holds up your wet cloth.

An action shot of me wetting out and glassing in the hatch channels. I am used to sitting with my legs crossed like we all did in grade school. At 59 I can still do this kind of stuff all day long if needed.

Interesting thing is I still feel the same aches at the end of the day as I did when I was in my twenties.

Here the core is all bonded down and I'am filling in some gaps around the hinge plugs with putty.

When bonding the core down using flat sheets you will need to hold them down with a little bit of weight. This is because it's a full flat sheet. If using Kerfed core then it all just flows into place.

Now the deck is all cored, putty filled and the radiuses are ground off. Ready for the last layer of fiberglass cloth. This would be a single layer of 1208 Bi- axel laid down with the matt side on the core.

When I glass the initial deck layers I do not glass over the hatch channels. I make sure the cloth goes up the sheer edges and the cockpit edges. When the cloth gets to the hatch channels it just goes up about half way. This gives me an edge to glass to when I do the last layer. At this time I do all the hatch channels. They are tedious.

Deck is fully glassed and you can see the pattern and how it was used.

Now the fun part is to start removing the temporary moldings. Just unscrew and off they pop. Sometimes a flat screw driver is needed to coax the pieces off. 

This is the same process that goes on in building cement buildings and structures. Just use your imagination when building the forms.

I was grinding the sheer edge off so I had some socks on.

I wear full clothing when cutting fiberglass.

A hammer under the bow for a bit of leverage and.......

Up she goes ! Reeve and Marc helping at this stage as they could not bend over so well to the floor as me. The deck weighed about 125lbs so was no big deal to move about. 

Reeves skiff had a bit of reverse sheer to it. They were both worried that the deck would be too stiff and would not flow over the sheer. From experience I knew that these decks are a bit flexible over gental curves fore and aft.

Now I'am removing the hatch channels

Just use a hammer and screws like shown. Make sure you have something between the hammer and the deck to prevent crushing of the core.

Marc was convinced these raw wood channels would not come out. Ha !! With my system of sloppy corners the clay gap gives way and because it's epoxy resin which does not shrink so much they just slide right out. 

Using polyester resin which in the heat we were experiencing would shrink faster it could be a bit tighter. But one corner always comes out. Then it's easy to get a pry lever under the next corner and the others will follow.

Marc was so impressed with my system he took me out to dinner to celebrate a new learned method.

The black lines are the cores company info. By not using a gelcoat which is not possible with epoxy resin everything is clear and you could see any air bubbles if they were there.

Now the skiff comes back into play. Because the deck pattern was accurate, and I remembered to flip the pattern over all fit like a glove.

You can see the crown here.

A great design by Marc at ENVI BOATS.

The deck fits the slight reverse sheer perfectly.

Now how to make each hatch fit perfectly in place with the right amount of crown.

What you do is go back to the deck mold and using a hatch pattern you cut like in the next drawing picture you just place on the deck where the hatch gutters were made and screw down the hatch edges. Pull out the pattern and clay in the radiuses.

Don't forget to add the recessed hatch hinge inserts. In the right matching place.

This explains how to get a perfect hatch pattern every time. You have to make these patterns because the hatches could be slightly off from side to side. You can't see this by eye till you try and set your hatch in place and it's an 1/8" off. 

Remember you have to FLIP the made pattern from the finished deck you have outlined it from upside down to make the form to build it from.

Using this method you can make new hatches for any skiff or boat that needs a new hatch.

Clayed up, waxed and the core is ready.

Use the hatch pattern to cut your cloth with.

 Glass and glue the core in place.

A little weight to hold the core in place.

One trick to getting your hatches to lay perfectly in place is to not glass the final layer on top of the core. Remove the hatches and set them into their respective hatch channels. If they fit perfectly they should all be about 1/16-1/8" lower than the deck surface depending how thick you plan on glassing the hatches. If you are building big deck hatches for a large boat then your depths and tolerances will be quite different then this lightweight project shown. Touch all their four corners to check to see how they will lay against the hatch channel lip. If there is any wobble you can mark this on the underside of the hatch to add glass to. If a corner is a bit high you can mark it and just sand that areas core away. This take seconds. Once happy then just finish glassing the hatch underside.

To find out how thick your glass skin needs to be just make 4 small clay balls and set the in the 4 corners on the hatch flange. Now gently lower the hatch onto these clay balls. Push the hatch down till it's perfectly level with the deck all round. Happy.. Now lift the hatch out and measure how thick each clay ball is after being compressed. Now you can see where to go from there.

Reeves hatches all fit perfectly so this was not needed.

After curing remove the edges. I cut the excess glass off before doing this. The hatches have perfect edges then. Now place in your new deck.

All done. Now to sand, fill in imperfections, primer paint, and then finish paint.

The thing you can do at this stage is to glass on added stuff like the side console, raised toe rails,

Cowlings for cables, stern sump areas and such.

Total hours labor time for this project was 56 hours over 6 days including my time buying the supplies for the deck plug.

It rained most evenings with big thunder storms. I enjoyed this as I was on land and my sailboat was hundreds of miles away from these boomers.

Some little guys that helped me, the yard was full of these little toads that I had to watch out to not step on.

Looking back at myself at 23 years old building a one off deck for a flats skiff.

Pulling parts out of the flipped over deck. Back then I used to make nice plugs that could be used over again if you were going to build the same size hatch. I stopped doing this soon as I just liked to build every deck slightly different and there really was no time savings.

A one off deck of 34 years ago built with polyester resin and gelcoat. I stopped using gelcoat as it just added extra unnessary weight to a deck that was going to be painted anyway.

I will post pictures of Reeves completed skiff as he sends them to me.

Thanks again Reeve for your wonderful friendship, hospitality and for letting me be part of your build.

New Flats skiff design for PIRANHA BOATS

Mike Held owner of PIRANHA BOATS contacted me this past winter asking to design him a flats skiff for his company. We met in Islamorada and talked skiffs. Mike Builds competitive priced small fishing skiffs and wanted a design that would fit in with the top skiff brand names but he wanted a design to have a price that could be an entry level skiff that more people can afford. 

My observation of the market is it can use a good hull shape that can carry the new weight demands of a big engine, trolling motors, power pole, coolers, bait well tanks, and big people.

To add to this mix a skiff that could be built and bought at a reasonable price compared to the top end skiffs could be very competitive.

To do this the design of the interior and how the skiff was to be built had to be simple, to the point, and very easy to build. 

There are lots of great price point skiffs being built out there today. My design goal was to put a reasonably shallow drafting hull that could take some major chop and mesh it with a nice basic interior plan as the starting point. It's always easy to add more deck interiors to a design and up the options and prices along the way.

Following is a discription of my research into how I came up with this particular design to fit this market.

My design takes all kinds of things into consideration. To find out what I would be competing with I did what all racing sailors have do to their boats. They get them measured by a certified measurer so that they and everyone else racing and competing against them would know how this particular boat will rate. Races are measured by sailing times over the course.

In flats fishing you are competing against the fish and other skiff designs. If your design can run well in heavy chop, be reasonable all round fast, comfortable and not draw too much water then you have a good skiff. If it's built well, for a reasonable price then that's even better.

I started out this commission by looking at all my past designs. The MARQUESA with its deep vee was my goal to improve on. In the market today the top name brands are the MAVERICK HPX SERIES, HELLS BAY SKIFFS, EAST CAPE, BEAVERTAIL,and the CHITTUM SKIFFS.

The price point skiffs are all over the place now with many nice skiffs with my guess ANKONA SKIFFS  being in the lead in this market.

The top end skiffs though have all the deep vee models. This is the market that this skiff design is going after but at the price point level.

Because I have all my past designs on paper it's easy for me to see their hull shapes and I know them very well.

The first thing I did was to very carefully measure both the MAVERICK 17'6" HPX model of their deep vee skiff design. I then went next to the CHITTUM SKIFFS ISLAMORADA 12 degree 18' skiff.

I also measured the big new HPX model. These deep vee skiffs along with the HB Marqueasa are what you see the most in the Florida keys guide market. The CHITTUM SKIFF gets looked at because of the media exposure it has created.

To me these and my old HB design the Marquesa is the market because of the deep Vees in these hull designs.

Let's take a look at my journey of what's up today in this nich skiff market and my ideas to hopefully improve on what's happening to day.

This to me is a start of what's going wrong with skiffs today. Here's the original BEAVERTAILS copy of the HB skiff. It's a 17.8 hull basically with a big guy on the stern and she's going down. 9-10" draft for sure.

Today's typical HPX with no one aboard. Not enough hull displacement. This means this skiff design is out dated and needs to be rethought to be able to carry all this stuff. This skiff at the stern now is drawing about 14-15". But she's outfitted with all mod coms.

A BEAVERTAIL  I passed the other morning in Islamorada. The guys here loved their skiff. This is great. They are enjoying their ride and being out on the water. It has been outfitted by the builder and it's obvious they are fine with how she looks here. They are not designing a skiff to float well with this load aboard. She looks great in the sales brochures all empty of this gear. How come all skiff manufactures don't show pictures like this?

17.8 HB sitting low. Too much stuff for a 18 year old design to carry around.

This HPX when balanced will draw 15" of water and be very wet when running in any chop.

The colored picture shows my latest LITHIUM SKIFFS hull bottom with my new PIRANHA SKIFFS hull bottom below side by side.

The pink in the yellow areas are the lifting pads of each hull. The bright yellow is the waterline displacement at their respective designed drafts. 7" LITHIUM 9" PIRANHA.

Look at how the yellow waterline goes forward towards the bow. A very nice fair point.

I will have all these drawings on my other blog...hogfishdesign.wordpress.com posted for perfect clarity.

The upper spray Chines are shown in pink. 

I strongly feel why my skiffs pole well is because of the way the waterlines are drawn in long and fair. You also get lots of good flotation-bouancy up forward when polling a person on the bow. So many skiff designs today don't consider this at rest need. When poling you are only moving at 1-2 knots.

The PIRANHA 18 has a plumb bow designed in for added bouancy, longer waterline, ease of poling in wind and being able to want to when not poling to turn up into the wind. These factors are huge pluses if you are a poler. This designs draft can still get you into shallow enough waters.

What I am showing here is the waterlines of the HPX 17', HPX 18' and the CHITTUM 18' skiffs.

Go look this up on my other blog to see it perfectly. What I found when measuring these skiffs is that the CHITTUM skiff has almost the same hull dimensions as the HPX 17' skiff. The numbers are very close. The lower Chine measurements are almost the same on both skiffs. The difference being is the Chittum design team lowered the bow chine forward and made the spray rail a deep vee instead of a add on plastic rail.

Very dissapointing to me when I discovered this. If the MAVERICK company built their HPX skiffs hulls a bit lighter then they would float the same as the CHITTUM skiff.

I Believe the HPX line of skiffs are the most successful skiff builds on the market to date. 

The dark red thin line shows the Two skiffs waterlines. They only change at the bow where the CHITTUM skiff has lowered their chine 3". The other light black waterline is the 18' HPX waterline.

All the yellow represents my designs waterline area. You can see I am going for more volume- displaement to carry the big loads of today and still draft at 9".

See how the other skiffs waterlines turn in? This to me plus their long overhanging bows, deep draft when loaded  make them not as easy to pole. My design is to get as much waterline length in as possible in an 18' skiff. In racing sailboats today it's all about long clean waterline lengths. When you are poling you are moving along at slow speeds. Why not have a bow designed for this? All my past designs have very long waterlines. I do this for poling ease. Long overhanging bows look cool but I feel serve no purpose in a boat that needs to be poled about at slow speeds. My waterlines and bows help my designs turn into the wind instead of falling off and making it very hard to pole in beam winds.

All skiff bows when running are in the air. They never go through seas. And if you are crossing a big rough channel you just trim up a bit if going down sea in big seas. My bow will not be dipping into the chop as far as the others when you are anchored up fishing for tarpon.

Here's the CHITTUM skiff I was measuring. I mark off the skiff in 2' sections at the chine and at the sheer.

I then measure out from the middle of the keel to the chine edge. I then Measure up from the chine to the sheer. You have to take into account the differences of the deck builds and such.

I then measure out from the center lines to the sheer edges. From here I measure back into the hull width. All skiffs have varying deck overhangs. Most all skiff builders quote their hull beams and widths using their overhangs. I check the beam measurements from side to side to see how accurate the build was. These skiffs plugs were made by computers so perfect from side to side.

It takes a half an hour to do this. If I put the skiff on a platform alone I can measure it accurately enough to within a 1/16". This would take a few hours. For what I was looking for the method shown is very close. I wanted to see how big or small they really are. Now we all know. They are too small for big engines and lots of stuff by today's needs.

Unless you are happy with a 15-17" draft.

My measurements and the deck overhangs shown.

The white skiff is an HPX and the blue one is a CHITTUM.

This scale drawing shows my new design with the bright yellow being the added displaement and beam. I want this skiff to be able to rate legally for a 150 hp engine. The HPX and Chittums sterns are shown here superimposed with the Chittums skiffs stern at its advertised draft depth. The two skiffs have the same stern dimensions but the CHITTUM skiff has the crowned deck. The HPX rates it's skiff accurately at 90 hp. 

My design is drawn at full load waterline with a 150 hp on the stern 3 big guys in the skiff and all mod coms attached to this design. Less stuff less draft. My design has more vee but way less draft. See the width of my transom as drawn to carry a 115 hp engine on the stern. Lots bigger stern. Same as the Marquesa.

Let's look at how it gets done.

Now you add fuel, a 90 hp outboard, bait well water, People and gear. I am being generous here with the real reality.

Now by just looking back up at the photos above you can see the problems of today with skiffs. The HPX does float like this. It's reality. The difference is the CHITTUMS HULL is built lighter. That's it.

This shows the other skiffs if empty where they might float compared to my designs full load waterline. 

See how their vee stops at the lower chine. I have never liked this part of these designs. It limits the vee forward when going in big chop. This is why I always make my designs have the soft transitions at these stations.

See how much vee I have and it's softer when running into seas.

I have drawn in a bigger upper spray rail all the way aft to help her stay dry. This is the departure from my past Marqueasa design.

Just imagine how wet these skiffs are when loaded and running in a beam or just reaching conditions.

I know what they do as I have spent time in lots of these skiffs. I want to be as dry and as comfortable as possible in an 18' skiff.

With all this information I have made a weight list of everything that could go on a skiff like this today. During the Tarpon tournaments here this summer the fastest skiff out here is a CHITTUM skiff with a 150 hp on her. The owner only uses this skiff for tournaments for the speed to get to the best tarpon hole first. Most guides I talked to had 115 HP on the sterns of their HPXs skiffs and many were owned by private owners that only use these skiffs for tournaments. Otherwise they say they are too hard to pole and too wet.

With my weight list I have drawn in the needed displacement. The most important thing is knowing in advance the weight the finished hull will weigh. I have designed a simple well proven build schedule using some core and lots of solid E-glass laminations. This saves time and material costs. Because the hull does not need to be cutting edge lightweight this saves money. But in reality it will be cutting edge light weight for its size and weight carrying ability.

The interior is simple with good hatch sizes and very good hatch drains. The Baitwell is designed to go in the floor to lower the weight of the water. Dee vee narrow skiffs can be what is called cranky. This skiff has a wider beam so will not be tippy-cranky like the others. This design is similar in dimensions to the Marquesa in beam and vee. The bow waterline is longer and the upper spray rail is very aggressive to help with the spray so will be dryer than the Maquesa. It hopefully will also pole better.

The sheer has a slight reverse dip to it forward. The deck forward is drawn to have a 1/2" of crown in it and it will flatten out as it goes aft. It also has higher freeboard and the upper chine is designed to be 9" above the waterline at full load.

The transoms corners will be well rounded to help in turning when poling, giving no eddies when polling and to help with water noise.

This skiff should fit well into the performance higher speed crowd that will run the skiff with a 90-115 hp outboard.

It's been a very informative summer for me being anchored in Islamorada seeing and talking to all the fishing Guides about all the various skiffs about.

Selling skiffs to Guides is a small part of the skiff building market. It sure helps with Guides liking your skiff design though.

The main points I learned this summer from the Guides are this;

-A dry running skiff is very important.

-being able to pole well is very desirable.

- reasonable draft sure helps.

- speed only matters in tournaments.

- a good customer company relationship goes a long way to referrals.

- and yea..sure if you have the above and it costs are reasonable...bingo!

Looking forward to seeing what Mike Held does with this design.

PIRANHA Boats will be building the plugs and molds for this skiff soon. 

For information on this skiff contact Mike Held;

PIRANHA BOATWORKS

1770 East Lake Mary Blvd

Suite C2 

Sanford, Fl 32773

sales@piranhaboatworks.com

ph: 305-710-4757

Mike Held     Owner